In a recent interview, British fashion maverick Ozwald Boateng has articulated his vision for a potential revolution in the furniture industry, similar to the way he redefined traditional tailoring practices on London’s prestigious Savile Row.
Boateng, renowned for his groundbreaking approach to menswear, has joined forces with the esteemed Italian brand Poltrona Frau to unveil his debut furniture collection, which includes a contemporary interpretation of the iconic Chesterfield sofa.
Speaking to Dezeen, the London-based designer expressed his belief in the existence of untapped potential within the furniture market for a more diverse and culturally rich aesthetic. He stated, “There is a creative language that needs to express more in this space,” and emphasized his unique cultural perspective, stemming from his African heritage, UK upbringing, and his extensive experience on Savile Row. Boateng firmly believes that there is a distinct opportunity to infuse furniture design with his distinctive aesthetic.
Born in 1967 to Ghanaian immigrant parents who arrived in the UK in the 1950s, Boateng made history at the age of 28 by becoming the youngest and first Black tailor to establish a store on Savile Row, the epicenter of bespoke suit craftsmanship. His innovative take on classic menswear silhouettes appealed to a younger and more diverse clientele, transforming Mayfair’s fashion landscape.
Boateng’s creative approach is grounded in tradition but seeks to find a modern language through which to express it. He has built his reputation by starting with the familiar and reimagining it for contemporary sensibilities.
When Poltrona Frau approached Boateng with a collaboration opportunity, he saw it as a chance to apply his innovative thinking to the world of furniture. The Chesterfield sofa, known for its quilted leather upholstery and low back, has a rich history dating back to the 18th century. It was initially designed to accommodate gentlemen guests without wrinkling their suits. Poltrona Frau has been producing its own version, the Chester, since 1912. Boateng, who has always had an affinity for the Chesterfield, seized the opportunity to reinterpret it for the modern era.
Boateng unveiled his reinterpretations of the Chester sofa, armchair, daybed, and ottoman during the London Design Festival. The standout feature of these designs is their unique embossed leather upholstery, which incorporates intricate patterns. This effect was achieved through a labor-intensive hot embossing technique, a process that took six months to develop. It involves manually applying pressure to the leather between a smooth metal surface and a bakelite plate.
Boateng firmly believes that this level of innovation is vital to ensure that designs like the Chesterfield remain relevant, particularly in an industry he perceives as lacking innovation, referring to the British manufacturing industry. He stated, “I have always said that tradition has to evolve or it dies.” According to Boateng, the UK produces only a fraction of what it once did, largely due to the reluctance to adapt and evolve skillsets. He emphasizes that understanding the rules and knowing how to bend them is the key to evolving traditions and adding friction to the creative process.
Boateng’s interpretation of the Chesterfield is a reflection of his multicultural heritage, with the embossed Tribal pattern based on traditional West African cloth prints, one of his signature textile designs. In addition to the Chester series, Boateng has also reimagined Poltrona Frau’s 1930 Vanity Fair armchair, featuring the Tribal pattern digitally printed onto a matte-effect velvet.
Describing the collection as a “layered proposition,” Boateng is motivated more by the quality of the final product than its symbolic representation. Throughout his career, he has navigated perceptions, and he believes that his ability to respect traditions while finding inventive ways to evolve them has been the key to his acceptance and success, both on Savile Row and now with Poltrona Frau.
